A few years ago I was watching a documentary or television show about surfing. Maybe 45 minutes in there was an interview with someone, Laird Hamilton I think, who was described as a veteran of the waves. He was shown surfing the Great Barrier Reef or someplace else equally dangerous and was asked about his time there. He replied that he loved surfing the rough waves every time, learning something new each time. The interviewer then asked him specifically about his fears on the roughest seas, wondering if he wasn’t ever afraid of the crashing surf. Laird’s face twisted a bit, then turned into a laughing smile. “Well, they ARE waves. That’s what they do. They crash, man.”
Over the course of the next few weeks, I’m going to return to this thought process as I analyze my own behavior.
“For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going downhill when we stop taking risks.” – Laird Hamilton